africa | The Crafter

Agave plant outside Marrakech

On a recent trip to Marrakech we went out towards the Atlas Mountains and came across this cactus-like plant. It looks a bit like an aloe, but apparently its an agave plant. Each leaf contains long fibres that are used to make a local silk. Breaking down the fibre, retting or decortication, is probably done in the countryside by machines as in this image of processing sisal from Tanzania from 1906 and 1918.

In the souks in the heart of the medina, piles of this spun yarn are dyed and hung up in the sun to dry on long poles that reach across the streets below. The salesman was confused about someone wanting to buy the yarn rather than one of the woven scarves on sale. I’m sure I paid over the odds, but we did have a tour of the dyers’ quarter. Back home the task is to untangle the huge slippery skein. I can’t wait to knit some swatches and I’ll post them here when they’re done.

There is a lot of weaving in Africa but not all of it is quite as organised as the government started Manufactures Sénégalaises des Arts Décoratifs (MSAD). Set up in the 1960s by President Senghor, it is now host to many famous artists who have their work made up into tapestries by the skilled workers here.

The MSAD specialise in tufted rugs that command high prices on an international market and hang in prestigious places like the UN HQ in New York.

Léopold Sédar Senghor – poet, politician and cultural theorist – was Mayor of the small town on Thiès (pronounced ‘chess‘) before becoming first president of Senegal. He was educated in France and the techniques used at Thiès owe more to the Gobelin traditions of Paris and Aubusson rather than local weaving. They also make flat woven tapestries that have great graphic impact.

I wasn’t allowed to photograph any of the finished items, but have tried to document the process. Top is my favourite image. These are the colour keys, one for each tapestry, that makes a ready-reckoner for the weaver following the artist’s cartoon.